last week in antwerp, we visited one of my favorite belgian musea: the plantin-moretus museum, honoring the famous printers christophe plantin and jan moretus, and located at their residence and printing establishment on the friday market. the museum was named a unesco world heritage site in 2005, and deservedly so. it houses an extraordinary collection of printed material, including a gutenberg bible, as well as the two oldest surviving printing presses in the world. all this in a gorgeous house with richly decorated interiors, some with amazing gold-embossed leather wallcovering. but really, my most profound impression of the museum is sensory: the scent of old books, leather bindings, ink, beeswax and woodsmoke is utterly captivating.